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Bosnia journals 2024, Journal #2:
A visit to Pecka, Vitorog, and Medna: biologists on the front line; the scandal of coal

2024 Journal index

Introduction: Meeting the environmental activists
Journal 1:  Ozren is Not for Sale
Journal 2Pecka and vicinity: biologists on front line; scandal of coal
Journal 3: The Pliva River, from the headwaters to the Jajce waterfalls
Journal 4:  Coal in Ugljevik; Lithium on Mt. Majevica
Journal 5:  With Hajrija Čobo at Mehorić; Visiting Robert Oroz in Fojnica

Previous journals and articles

To contact Peter in response to these reports or any of his articles, click here.


Bosnia-Herzegovina has zinc, lead, gold, lithium, cobalt, nickel, antimony, barite, boron, and still more. But this is not to say that Bosnia is a rich country. All these riches can turn out to be a curse.

After I spent a few days on Mt. Ozren, Davor Šupuković arranged a ride for me across the north of Bosnia to a visitor center in a sparsely populated village called Pecka. An old elementary school, no longer in demand, is located there, refurbished by Mr. Boro Marić with support of an umbrella organization,
Greenways. The center's web site describes the goal: "The preservation of natural resources and defense of biodiversity in designated areas, and the establishment of new models of sustainable development."

Mr. Marić told me, "We started this visitor center 10 years ago. We are working out of inat
[spite], to show how much better it is to develop tourism than hydro-electric dams. The dams are created through deceit and they result in environmental destruction. There is a dam near here with pipes that are nearly three meters in diameter. But there is not enough water to operate the dam all year; it only works during the winter. One should contrast the dams with the effect of our center, which is a pilot project." 

The Pecka Visitor Center is an attempt to revive the life and the economy of an area whose population has been significantly depleted; Mr. Marić told me that some decades ago, there were 2,500 residents of Pecka, but that over the years, they had emigrated to Dalmatia and Vojvodina. Today, the official population is 75.

If you look at a map of Bosnia-Herzegovina, not far from the center of the country you'll see the town of Mrkonjić Grad, between Jajce and Ključ. Due south of Mrkonjić is Šipovo, and Pecka Visitor Center (in the settlement of Gornja Pecka) is to the northwest of Šipovo. The four towns, Mrkonjić Grad, Jajce, Šipovo, and Pecka, form a diamond shape, with all of them except for Jajce located in the Republika Srpska.

It was opportune for me to arrive at Pecka just as a group of young biologists from all around Bosnia convened there to study biodiversity in unspoiled surroundings. For a moment I wondered why Davor had sent me there, but he knew what I needed. The region is subject to many of the threats to nature that profiteers and international industrialists can pose. With its ore-laden mountains and its many streams and rivers, the area is ripe for exploitation and despoliation from coal mining, lithium and gold prospecting, and the destruction of biodiversity that results from the construction of hydroelectric dams.

The biologists consider that their research is the advance work in preparing a case for the preservation of the biodiversity and natural beauty of the lands which are the heritage of every Bosnian. A catalogue of the rare and sometimes newly discovered species in a given territory is a crucial tool in the defense of a resource that should be protected forever. The biologists are on the front line, in the Mrkonjić-Šipovo region, in Ozren, and throughout Bosnia-Herzegovina.

On my first day in the area, I rode up the slopes of Mt. Vitorog, south of Šipovo on the inter-entity boundary, with the entire group of biologists. After driving carefully up through forested hills along a steep and unpaved road, we stopped at a viewpoint where we could look down on the headwaters of the Pliva River. There is a song about this river that, for some people, serves as Bosnia's national anthem. It is a song of longing, a love song for the pastoral landscape of the region.


The headwaters of the Pliva River, viewed from Mt. Vitorog

From the viewpoint we looked down on the village of Dragnić and the streams flowing through the valley below. Some of the biologists had already started their work, noting a large praying mantis situated in the rocks on the side of a hill. Some of them were looking for bats, others for insects, plants, reptiles, and amphibians. One of them, Dejan, looked for scorpions; he told me that there are 15 species in the area, and that their sting is weaker than that of a bee.

I walked into the woods with Dragan and Rade. The told me that there are wolves, boar, deer, and bobcats in the area. We spotted a large bird, the šumska kokoš, or grouse, that resembles a turkey.
There are otter in the rivers, going after the river crabs.

Our task was to find and identify mushrooms. I never saw so many mushrooms, and so many varieties, in my life. The two of them picked mushrooms and photographed each one from several angles.

The next morning I had an early appointment, and I was in the cafeteria at 7:00 a.m.  Rade was already there, alone, poring over his mycology book. Rade was a self-educated, expert mycologist. I found out later that he had missed going to college because he was of military age when the war broke out in 1992. He made up for this afterwards by studying on his own, focusing on his passion. He could identify all the mushrooms by their Latin names. He attended mycology conferences in Belgrade, and astonished the learned biology professors there with his knowledge.

That day in the forest, we found and identified 97 species of mushrooms. I was told that there are over 1,700 different species in the region. Many of them are specific to the trees that they grow near.

The dangers threatening the rivers and pastures of the region were on the minds of the biologists that day. One of them explained to me that they don't know exactly what threats await the natural setting, but that there could be bad news at any moment. That is how new dams and new mines are announced: with the sound of a bulldozer. There are several dams planned in these municipalities on the headwaters of the Pliva and the Sana, and there is resistance to them, as they destroy the fish and wildlife habitats around them without restraint.

Nataša Mazalica, a biologist who was coordinating the week's research, told me that a mini-dam was built at Glavica, and it has undermined the stability of the river's course and endangered a nearby bridge. One species of fish, "lipljen," has vanished. She pointed out that no fish ladder had been incorporated into the design of the dam, and that there were no inspections undertaken. She commented, "People don't see this, and so they don't think of it as any kind of problem. They think that nature is in great shape, but practically every waterway is devastated."

"Only the Neretva has 30 kilometers of unspoiled river," she continued, "The rest is kaput, finished."

Biologists and environmental activists consistently tell me that Bosnia has a pitifully small amount of protected natural areas for conservation compared to the rest of Europe, measuring out at under 4%, as compared with an international level near 18%, as reported by
oneearth.org. Tradingeconomics.com corroborates this figure, while it also reports, for example, that Austria's protected land amounts to 29.5% of the country.

*

The day after the mushroom hunt, Sergej Milanović, a forestry engineer and member of the Mrkonjić Grad municipal assembly, came early to Pecka to take me to visit a coal mine. He had publicly campaigned against the mine due to pollution it caused in nearby streams and rivers.

Milanović had made local news in June of 2023 when he brought a pickaxe to a municipal assembly meeting. He brought it wrapped in gift paper, hoping to present it to Mayor
Dragan Vođević. This bit of theater on Milanović's part was prompted by what he considered underhanded maneuvering by the mayor, who was angling to push through approval of a mining permit.

I asked Mr. Milanović for details about the problem. He told me that
Mrkonjić Grad had promised a permit to Lykos Balkan Metals—the same company that is prospecting on Mt. Ozren—to explore for lithium near Jezero. This project would affect three adjacent municipalities: Jezero, Šipovo, and Mrkonjić Grad. Milanović said, "I found out that there had been no discussion: the mayor was ready to provide Lykos with the permit without even consulting the public."

The municipal assembly of Mrkonjić Grad was being asked to vote on the measure without having the chance to review it in advance. Milanović asserted that the mayor and his party, constituting the majority in the body, "had not organized a public discussion about geological research; rather, they had simply prepared an assembly decision about geological research, and the assembly members did not know what they were supposed to vote about."

He continued, "So I brought the pickaxe to the meeting." Mr. Milanović attempted to present the gift-wrapped pickaxe to Mayor Vođević, a medical internist by profession, saying, "You are not a doctor anymore. You can be a miner now; take this and go to work."

The assembly majority, all members of the SNSD party of Milorad Dodik, expressed their objection to Milanović's action not only by walking out of the assembly session, but by calling the police on him. The police, however, declined to intervene, saying that there had been no threat and no violence.

The permit decision soon went through, and Milanović told me, "
Lykos has been drilling down 200 meters. The institutions have no ability to control the exploration. The company could find one mineral, but say something else." And in fact, in addition to lithium, Lykos has reported finding gold in the area.


The wall of mud tailings from the coal mine above Medna village

We drove north from Pecka, passed through the village of Baraći, and arrived at the out-of-the-way village of Medna. A few houses and a solid Orthodox monastery graced the valley under the surrounding mountains. To the east we saw a wall of mud dozens of meters high, reaching up one of the hills. It was our job to climb up that slope to arrive at a coal mine that was the source of all the mud.

I had not known what to expect; I imagined that were going to descend into a mineshaft. After we parked, Mr. Milanović pulled out a pair of knee-high rubber boots for me.

We started up the hill of mud. I was carrying my notebook and a pen, and I had my phone out so that I could take photos. I did not make good progress; I noticed my feet, and then my legs, sinking down into the mud. It got worse. As I would pull one leg out of the mud, the other leg would go in deeper—and the leg that I was pulling out would leave its boot behind, sunk all the way to the top.

It was a dilemma. At one point I managed to extract both of my legs, with boots on, but the terrain was steep and slippery. I toppled over, and became one with the mud. My phone went one way, and my notebook, the other. There was mud on my clothes and on the phone. I noticed my glasses had flown off, but they weren't far away.

I pulled myself together and continued up the slope, trying to follow in Milanović's footsteps. He offered some helpful advice, saying, "How much do you weigh?" (not that much), and "You don't really have a good walking technique for this situation." An anti-gravity device would surely have helped my technique. After a while, the going got easier as the ground became more solid.

That slope of mud and then firmer soil resembled a moonscape with a few hardy weeds growing out of it. We reached what turned out to be the crest of an open-pit coal mine about a hundred meters above the village. There, under the continuing slopes and pinewoods, stretched an open expanse of dirt about 12 hectares (30 acres) in size, cut out of the hillside.

It was an off-day at the Medna coal mine, with no workers present, and a lone earth mover standing still at one edge of the site. The ground was uneven, with small hills here and there. We tarried a while, surveying the ugly pit that the miners had gouged out of the hillside.

Several people who have talked to me about coal mining in Bosnia-Herzegovina have tried to address the question of who is supporting the extraction, and where the coal ends up. The answers are to some extent available, garnished by a dose of conjecture bordering on rumor.

More than half—
some analysts estimate up to 70%—of Bosnia's energy supply comes from five coal-burning thermal plants, with most of the remainder supplied by large hydroelectric dams. These plants are supplied by Bosnia's dozen-odd active coal mines (see map here). Of these, ten are state-owned; the rest are owned by private companies. The International Trade Administration estimates that Bosnia holds at least two billion metric tons of accessible coal. Bosnia burns about 13 million tons of coal a year. It is also the region's only exporter of electrical power.

Bosnia exports not only electricity generated by coal, but coal itself. And much of that coal comes from illicit mines that have not received permits, or whose permitting process has taken place via crony-operated manipulation, as is the case with the mine at Medna village. Similar mines have been opened under "controversial" circumstances near Prijedor.

Much of the exported coal is trucked to neighboring Serbia. One activist told me, "There is a proliferation of new, privately owned coal mines by Serbian criminals. There is no customs control when they cross the border into Serbia." Details about such "criminals" are, understandably, elusive.

More details are available about who operates some of the dodgy mines in Medna and Prijedor. Sergej Milanović told me, "Srđan Klječanin from Teslić controls the exploitation. It's his machines. He opens the mines, sets up everything. The concessions are owned by people who do not have any capital: fictitious companies. They are legally liable, but nothing can happen to them. There is no accountability. There are protective laws but they are not implemented. This dynamic is above the law."

Milanović was unable to provide information about who received the coal on the Serbian end, and who ordered it or set up that side of the operation. On the other hand, Croatian investigative reporter Domagoj Margetić seems very confident of his information about the complete chain of the transaction from the points of evironmental ransacking at humble Medna, and sites near Prijedor including Bistrica and Bukova Kosa mines, all the way to Serbia.

In August of 2024, Margetić blasted the mayor of Prijedor along with several of his functionaries, as well as Republika Srpska Minister of Energy and Mining Petar Đokić and his deputy minister, Esad Salčin. He stated that they and the likes of them do not see any problem with the poisoning of the atmosphere around the mines. It's important to note here that Bosnia's brown coal and lignite is of the worst variety of coal—a fuel that should be phased out in any case. That coal provides the least energy, has the highest moisture content, and the greatest amount of sulphur, which goes directly into the air around the thermo-electric plants where it is burned.

Margetić writes about the mines near Prijedor, which have spontaneously caught on fire; the overloaded trucks that spread toxic dust through the nearby villages while destroying the roads they travel on; and the runoff from the mines that turns the nearby streams and lakes red with oxidized sulphur. Referring to the above-mentioned officials, he states, "With documents, they conceal this pollution by the illegal mines so that [President of Serbia] Aleksandar Vučić and [RS President] Milorad Dodik, Zvonko Veselinović, and Srđan Klječanin can continue smuggling illegal coal to Serbia. Thus Vučić and Dodik earn money by poisoning Serbs in the Republika Srpska and through criminal mining."

Margetić here discussed the problem at Prijedor, but he refers to the same chain of environmental criminality that Mr. Milanović mentioned to me, starting with Klječanin. But Milanović had not named Veselinović, who is a "controversial businessman" (read: "mafioso") operating in the Serb-populated part of Kosovo and elsewhere in Serbia, all the way up to Novi Sad.

Sanctions Watch
states that Veselinović is known for "illicit trafficking of goods, money, narcotics, and weapons between Kosovo and Serbia." He is close to the Serbian provocateurs who have mounted armed incursions from Serbia into Kosovo and attacked Kosovo police with firearms. In late 2021 the US Treasury Department's Office of Foreign Assets Control placed Veselinović under sanctions and called him "one of Kosovo's most notorious corrupt figures."

The above information illustrates, in very rough lines, the chain of corruption that facilitates profiteering via environmental pillage throughout Bosnia-Herzegovina and, if we want to look further, throughout much of the world: corrupt local officials and "businessmen" make deals with international extractors, without concern for the inhabitants, the biodiversity, or the natural beauty of their own lands. In the present case, relatively small operators from nearby Serbia are involved, but in other operations, there much larger companies implicated.


Coal mine tailings polluting the stream that flows through Medna village

Sergej Milanović and I headed back down the hill of soil and mud, along a route that was relatively free of the quicksand-like mud. On the way down he showed me a creek flowing off the mountainside, through the mud. It was clouded, a milky color. He showed me another creek running into it, with clear water. The polluted stream, Grabovac, flows through the village into the Medljanka River, which soon joins the headwaters of the Sana, one of Bosnia's major rivers. Milanović told me that the water in the Grabovac used to be "perfectly good drinking water, but it is now poisoned. It is fifth-class water now: you can't wash your car with it."

Milanović had taken samples of the water to demonstrate the problem, and the municipality ordered an inspection. The inspectors came and announced that they did not detect any discoloration in the water. Milanović told me, "I spoke about this in public, but there was no reaction. The local authorities behaved as if they were not responsible. We have done some campaigning, but it has not helped much, nor really raised awareness."

I asked if the villagers of Medna had complained about the water degradation, and he answered, "Yes, but they are afraid of the criminal group operating the mine." And I asked if there was one political party making all the relevant decisions on this issue. He responded, "Nema veze, it doesn't matter. They are all involved."

There has recently been movement regarding the mines near Prijedor. Villagers in Bistrica had tried to block the road to the mining site in mid-2023, objecting to the damage that preparation of a new mine was already doing to people's private lands. During that summer the municipal councilors of Prijedor agreed that mining activities should be stopped until all relevant documentation could be examined. However, Mayor Slobodan Javor stated that Prijedor was not in possession of any documentation, and that the RS Ministry of Energy and Mining had issued the permits for these mines. Petar Đokić had gone over the heads of the villagers in Prijedor municipality.
         
In July of the same year, the Republika Srpska National Assembly (NSRS) passed a new law seriously curtailing citizens' power to resist the assault by mining companies. The law removed the requirement for mining companies to consult with and receive consent from local residents and political officials in areas where prospecting is to take place. In addition, it greatly increased the amount of ore that can be extracted in "preliminary exploration" processes. The previous law allowed 200 cubic meters of raw material to be removed, while the new law permits up to 2,000 tons of metal ores and 500 tons of non-metal ores to be taken out. This turns "exploration" into full-fledged extraction.

The mine at Bukova Kosa is operated by the Teslić-based company Drvo-Export, owned by Srđan Klječanin. The Banja Luka-based Center for the Environment (Centar za Životnu Sredinu), together with about 30 residents of the village, filed a lawsuit to put a stop to the mining at Bukova Kosa because the work had been initiated in early 2023 without a permit, and the permit was not issued until eight months later, in January of 2024.

A news report noted that the mining had begun without even undertaking an environmental impact study. An opposition member of the Republika Srpska Parliament grilled Bojan Vipotnik, RS Minister of Spatial Planning, Construction, and Ecology. She asked, "How is it possible that the Ministry allowed the project holder to extract coal without an environmental impact study? Secondly, how do you plan to restore everything to its original state?"

The Minister finessed the first question, saying that "it was possible that the Ministry had issued the environmental permit." On the second question, he said, "I would respond with a counter-question—why should everything have to be restored to its original state?”

What more does one need, to illustrate the attitude of those who are eager to sell off their irreplaceable environment?

And as it happened, in late October of 2024 the District Court of Banja Luka annulled the permit issued by Vipotnik's Ministry.

The Ministry vowed to appeal.

 

 


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